Bustle



(No Model.) f A H. A. JEWELL'.'

BUSTLE.

UNITED STATESl PATEN T OFMCE.ifi g Y` 'l .l HARRIET A. '-JEWELL, or CLEVELAND, onto. 'f

. susi-LE. l'

sPncIPIcArron forming par: of Letters raten; No. vce1-,monaten Apru 1'7*I 188e. v

Application filed August 3, 18.86.

ing is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanyingdrawings. I

This invention has relation to bustles, and ro has for its object the production .of a light, 1 strong, serviceable bustle which will contract and expand in` two .directions-namely, horizontally, as heretofore, and vertically.

- A bustle constructed in accordance with my invention lwill,when the wearer assumesa sitf ting posture, be compressed horizontally-as,

for example, when the wearer is sitting against n the back'of a seat-'-and at the same time the bustle will be compressed vertically. Y The attainment of the last above-mentioned operation-that is, vertical compression and expan` sion-is secured byproviding a base or foundav *l tion formed of any material which is in the nature o`f a spring and adapted to support the 2 5 `principal elements of the bustle as awhole.

Other objects and advantages of my invention will'appear in the following description, and the novel features will be particularly pointed out in the claims.

substantiallyvertical central section of a busi tle constructed in accordance with my invenf; tion. Fig.'2 is an elevation, the outer covering being removed. Fig. 3 represents Fig. l.

compressed horizontally, and Fig. 4. represents the same compressed both vertically and horizontally; Fig. 5'is a detail illustrating one v method of securing the outer ends of the horizontal springs of thebustle. i Fig.k 6 isa modi-v 4o fied form of my-vertically-yielding base. f Like lettersndicate like parts-in .all .the

, `iiguresof the drawings. v h jl w- A represents the base or foundation, which in thisinstanceis represented as being made 45 of -wire bent to -form a lower and upper loop,

A,`with an intermediate transverse bend or bends, A2, 'whereby the said base may be contracted and expanded vertically, soas to bring the frames and intermediatebends close' together, and whereby, also, whenthe compressy` ing force is removed-as when the wearer lresumes a standing position after sitting-the A Referring to the drawings, Figure 1` is'fa` seria; No. soasss. (No moda.)

natural resiliency-of the base will causaitv4 to, expand. l i

B represents a fabric securedfin any manner 5 5 to the base whichlshall limit*` its expansion. In one instance hereinshown they fabric-is of such a sizelas'to completely cover the base, `for, in other words, isof substantially theisame,

area as is the base.,L v

In Fig. 6 the fabric is limitedjnarea, being much less than that of thebase, but stillse'erv-l Y, L. ingv the same function, in that the two frames' A( A are secured to the-lining or fabric B.

other the formerisslightly contractedso as to keepthelining under a'jtensionI- Clhef'saidL lining may be passed over the inner side'sof-v each of the frames and stitched thereto, as` at B,'Fig. 6, or it may be stitched to the outer 7c sidesof the frames A', as shown'at'As, Fig. 2; A `YIn this instance I have showna facing, C, se-l y cnredtovthe upper tedge of the bustle and falling Overthe lining B, l this to give finish to the article and to provideadditionallprotection,to "7 5 Y the wearer from `any discomfort by. reason of ythe contact ofthebasefwith the person; but o this is also materially avoided by reason ofthe- 4 arched contourof' the base, as clearlyv illustratedin Fig. l.y p f j l,Upon the base I mount rall the horizontal springs used in the bustle. 'These are yindi Y cated ascomprising twoseriesof threesprings,` D, eachn secured` upon the frames A Af ,at the topandfbottom of the bustle, and upon thein- '85 E, is represented. v

f-wish it clearly understood that 'I do not I may increase or diminish the number and change the arrangement thereof without a departurefrom my invention. y Y v i Forthe' purpose of a clear understanding of springs employed. I vmay secure the horizonv v convenient'man'ner.` In this Ainstance'Ihavve represented the lower coil secured to .the frame :i

VWheneverthe base comprises lmoret'han aI In securing lthe base and A,liningy B to each 65l .I

termediatetransverse arms,-A2, anotherspring, llimit-my invention to anyparticular arrangev t' f ment of Yhorizontal springs Aupon the ,base, 'as 9c .o

my invention I have limited the number ,of 95v tal springs to the base in any Well-known ,or 4

by means of a coil, F, of lwire,cord,orlthreadg. roo I single transverse bend, and whenever the lower coil of the horizontal springs is secured to an end frame and a transverse bend of the base, I may bend said lower coil or coilsso as to form a spring-connection of the frame and transverse arm or ofthe two arms upon which said spring is mounted. This lateral extension of the coil is indicated at G, Fig. 2. Now it will be seen that the said coil is capable of contraction and expansion in harmony with the base. If desired, the last coil may be laterally extended in both directions, (see dotted lines G', Fig. 2,) although I secure suicient elasticity to conform at the base with the verticalmovements of the base by a single bend or lateral extension, as shown.

The outer ends of the horizontal springs are secured to a series of tape-bands or to a covering, H, which may be continued at each side of the bustle and secured to the opposite edges of the lining or of the base. In Fig. 1 this covering is illustrated as being secured to the sides of the base, so as to inclose the entire series of springs except at the top and bottom.

To give further finish to the article, I secure at its upper edge, by stitching or otherwise, as at I, an apron, skirt, or fall, I, of any suitable fabric, and at the same place, and, if desired, by the same stitching, I secure waistbands J, these bands being intended to be passed about the body of the person in order to secure the bustle in desired positions for use. The upper coils of the horizontal springs may be secured tothe covering by stitches,as shown at'H, Fig. 5, or by any of the devices usually employed in hoopskirt manufacture. Y

If desired, and in order to secure parallelism in the contracting and expanding movements of the horizontal spring, I may employ guytapes K: secured to the outer coil or coils of the horizontal springs and to the inner coil or coils of the springs next above the same, as clearly illustrated in Fig. 1; or these tapes may be secured to a transverse bend of the base. l

By the construction above described it will be seen that I have alight, strong, serviceable bustle, which, when the wearer is standing, will support the weight of the skirts and give the desired form and appearance, and which, when the wearer assumes a sitting posture,

Awill be compressed vertically, and by the train of the skirts or sitting against the back of a seat will be compressed horizontally, so that the bustle as a whole is contracted into a small space without injury thereto and Without discomfort to the wearer, and this adaptability to occupy a limited space is also an irnportant advantage in packing, storing, and transporting the bustles. It will also be seen that as the wearer resumes a standing position the bustle automatically expands in both directions, bringing the skirts again to the desired form. Y

If desired, stays L (see Fig. 6) may be employed at thetop and bottom series of coils to secure said coils in their relative position.

Thesestays may be reed, rattan, wire-cloth, or wire, wire-cloth being shown at the bottom series in said figure and wire at the top. The purpose of this is, as before stated, to retain the coils in relative position to each other. t

Should exceedingly heavy clothing be worn, I provide means whereby the same is prevented from sagging the top series of the coils. This is shown in Fig. 1 and also in Fig.,6 of the drawings, and consists of a downwardly extending stop or limiting-arm of wire, M, whereby clothing bearing down upon the top series of coils, which series bears the most strain, can only force the said series down a certain distance,when the stop-arm M comesin contact with the base of the bustle and prevents further downward movement. This stop-arm M (see Fig. 6 and dotted lines,Fig. 1) is the equivalent of the straps K, Fig. 1, as they serve a like function-that is, prevent an undue sagging of the horizontal springs-the straps K, as shown, supporting the lower springs and the arm M the upper spring or springs.

Should a wire brace or stay, L, be made simply of a link of Wire, only a central spring may be used at the top `of the bustle, and rings L may be provided at the sides of the base,which, when the bustle is flattened by weight, will allow the said brace to expand laterally. If desired, the rings may be dispensed with and elastic bands may be used to connect the ends of the stay with the sides of the base.

' By the means above described I may use a single vertical series of two or more vcoils of wire to form the bustle, thus rendering the bustle easy of manufacture, cheap, and very 1i ht.

gThere are certain novel features as lto the arrangement and connections of the horizontal springs,which may be used in connection with a rigid base, if desired, by which I mean a base that does notcollapse vertically.

Having described my invention, its operation, and advantages, what I claim is- 1. A bustle comprising a vertically-yielding base, consisting of a wire forming frames and intermediate transverse frame-connecting portions, and horizontal springs having their lower coils laterally expanded mounted upon the bends, substantially as specified'.

2. A vbustle-base consisting of a wire or its described equivalent, and comprising frames A and intermediate transverse bends, A, and a lining, B, secured thereto, substantially as specified.

3. In a bustle, the combination, with a base consisting of frames A', intermediate bends, A, and a lining, B, of horizontally-projecting coiled springs D, secured to the base, and a covering, H, secured to the outer ends of the horizonal springs and to the base, substantially as specified.

4. The combination of the 4base A, having the transverse bends A and the lining B,with the springs D, the covering H, and the guytapes K, substantially as specified.v

IOO

IIO

5. The combinationv ofthe vertically-yieldcenterone of the'upper series of springs,where ing base A, the/springs D, the covering. H, they bythe --downward swingof said top 'series isj x 5 lining C, and the attaching-bands J J', sublimited, whereby the lweightcof additional? stantially as specified. t clothing sufficient to sag the top series of 5 6. The combination of the base A, adapted springs is supported bythe said stoparm, sub'- for vertical expansion and contract-ion, and the stantially as specified.. coils D, mounted thereon, with the central In testimonywhereof I affix my signatnrein, 2o spring or link, E, and tape K,v1hex" eby the ,cx-- presence of two witnesses. l pansion and contraction of t e rame A is Io 1imited,substantia11y as specified. HARRIET TEW-ELL? 7. The combination, with the base A,pro Witnesses: y l

vided withthc springs D, of the stop-arn1M,. CHARLES F. MCFALL, Connected at one end only to the outerfend of the HENRY LACY. 

